The drive to Woodstock, VA went exactly as I hoped it wouldn’t: rain (which ended when I got there) and traffic for miles on Route 66. Having left the office at noon, I did factor in some extra time for the inevitable delays. I arrived at the Shenandoah County fairgrounds (race headquarters) at 4:45 pm—just enough time to check in, weigh in, distribute my drop bags, and find a seat for the 5:00 pm briefing.
Ray Waldron, the race director, kept the briefing concise. He reviewed the course and the marking strategies, and informed us that the recent 5” of rainfall they received may make things a bit wet. At least the focus for race day was all sun and temps in the 80’s. Two years prior, I was in Woodstock to run the Old Dominion Memorial 50 miler with my friend Meredith Murphy, and we were greeted by temps in the 90’s -100’s, with unbearable humidity. Race founder, Patt Botts, also recapped a brief history of the race—how it began in the 70’s as an endurance horse race in similar fashion to Western States. And, a-la-Western States, they eventually decided to let a few crazy runners give it a go. They bill the race as an “old school ultramarathon”, one of the first on the east coast. And with a mere 39 individuals toeing the line for this 100 mile trek, complete with 28,000 feet of elevation change, and a few handfuls of volunteers, it felt pretty low key.
After the briefing, I made the two minute drive over to the Holiday Inn, checked into my room, and walked downtown to Tony’s Italian Restaurant for a good, inexpensive carbo-load. An hour later, I was back in my hotel room, where I sorted through gear, took a hot bath, and tossed and turned until 2:15 a.m.. When I did sleep, I woke nearly every hour to check the clock—the hotel alarm clock was busted (no replacements available)…another reason to be nervous, despite setting the alarm on my phone, watch, asking for a wake up call, and even a call from my wife at 2:30 a.m. Finally, I filled up on some coffee, and made a last minute decision to wear just Drymax socks rather than taping/lubing with Smartwools—figuring the tape would likely come off and ball up.
I arrived at Race Headquarters around 3:30 a.m., and made my way over to the crowd. I met a couple of familiar faces from Umstead, and we chatted a bit. Although I had been up for over an hour and a half, I was still dog-tired, and felt as foggy as the air outside. Next thing I knew, they called us to the start line for a brief prayer, and we were off.
As some seemingly ill-suited music blared across the loudspeakers, runners took off for the obligatory “ceremonial” loop around the racetrack. I was still in a bit of a sleep-deprived fog, but was well aware of the fact that this group of runners meant business. Rather than starting at a light trot, the group as a whole sped its way around the track and out towards town. I’m not entirely sure of the track distance, but I do know that at 4:06 a.m. we were moving through the neighborhoods of downtown Woodstock. I soon came to my senses and decided to back off, so I slowed the pace to a more casual run. Within two miles, I had left a good ¼ mile split between myself and the main pack.
Thick fog reflected the light from my headlamp as I approached Burnshire Dam. I could see about 10 feet in front of me. Random chem.-light markers broke the monotony of whiteness. On the other side of the dam, I began the first climb of the day, up Woodstock Mountain.
When I ran ODM 2 years ago, we hit the mountain by daybreak and were treated to spectacular views of the valley below. Not the same today. I meandered through the switchbacks of gravel road, and within 20 minutes had climbed above the fog. The moon was bright enough that I was able to switch off my headlamp, and power up the hills. The aid station at the top of the mountain came upon me quickly, even though I was at the back of the pack. I didn’t need to stop, so I took a bite of powerbar and began a quick descent, with a left turn to Mine Mountain drive. The gravel roads gradually wound down the mountain, and it was very tempting to speed up.
Eventually, we turned onto a rocky single-track trail which ascended the mountain for quite some time. The sun was up now, and the fog was breaking up in spots. While climbing along the trail, I decided to grab my first energy gel—Genr8 Vitargo that I mixed the day prior and packed into five gel flasks. In past trials at home, it seemed to work better than standard maltodextrine gels. Unfortunately, today’s entire batch solidified into masses of solid rubber in each of the gel flasks I had prepared...useless. I was pissed and apprehensive, knowing that if I were to stay in the game I’d have to survive all day off the food at the aid stations alone…namely pretzels, cookies, and the occasional peanut butter and jelly sandwich. I had one other power bar left, and I decided to save it for a real low spot. Historically, I’ve never done all that well on processed sugars during endurance events. PB&J would give me bulk calories, but didn’t digest as quickly as a gel.
The single-track trail began a healthy, rocky descent down to the Boyer Aid Station again, where I filled up on water and chips ahoy cookies. The next stretches of gravel country roads were familiar from the ODM route…past horse farms
, cattle farms, an old hippie bus/shack (which I’m still not sure if it’s not unoccupied).
It was nice to travel the familiar roads, especially in such pleasant temperatures. The last time I ran down that road the temps were holding steady near 100. I climbed the final hill of this stretch up to the Aid Station, loaded up on more cookies and a half of a PB&J sandwich, and scurried across to Boliver Road.
Within 10 minutes of running along Boliver, my stomach finally protested the mass quantities of sugary crap I’d been consuming, and I puked up everything that was in me. Nice. I sat down on a rock at the side of the road, cleaned some gravel out of my shoes, took a swig of water to rinse out my mouth, and took off running again. A mere 20+ miles into the course and I was wondering whether I should just call it a day.
For the next 10 miles, I pushed on over the rolling hills, through more horse country.
The gorgeous views of the surrounding mountain range helped pick me up a bit, and I turned on my mp3 player for some mental distraction.
When I rolled into the aid station at Camp Roosevelt, I was feeling somewhat better, but I knew the course was about to get technical again. As I filled my camelback, Justin Lantz (the winner) was already coming out of the Duncan Hollow loop and looked a bit wet and muddy. I overheard him tell some of his crew that the trail was more like a river, but it was definitely the most enjoyable part of the course. I chowed a few handfuls of more generic refined crap, and topped it off with a ginger chew in hopes that it would help keep things settled.
Leaving Roosevelt was a rocky single-track climb up another mountain for a couple of miles, followed by a stretch of paved road back near Roosevelt and out onto the Duncan Hollow trail. The first 1000’ feet of trail were in good shape. After crossing the first small creek, I saw the trail markers on the other side leading up what looked like a small waterfall.
I simply smiled and jumped in. And for the majority of the next 5 miles, this rocky stretch of the Massanutten trail was flowing like a small river anywhere from shin to knee deep.
It was fun splashing along in the cool water, although the slick rocks did make footing difficult at times. At one point, I did manage to whack my right foot against a large rock submerged in some slow moving muddy water, but I figured I had to lose at least one toenail for posterity.
Halfway through the trail, a couple of big ol’ backcountry biker dudes on dirt bikes greeted me at the “Peach Orchard” aid station (at that point, a big swamp) so I grabbed a few cookies and topped them off with another ginger chew. The trail soon began to dry off a bit as it wound up some steeper, rocky hills and looking out over some areas of burned forest. Surprisingly, this was one of the highest points along the course, but it certainly wasn’t the worst climb. The trail was much more exposed, and much hotter.
I pushed on through a rocky climb and descent, through a nice stream and out to an aid station for my first weigh in. Despite the junk food, water, and holding my bladder in anticipation of this, I was down almost 5 lbs. in 40 miles. Loose too much and they make you sit and gain weight at the aid station (I guess they just stuff you full of PB&J). The doc could tell I was feeling OK, so she let me continue.
After I slipped out onto the road and around the corner from the aid station, I found a place to pee, and then ran back to camp Roosevelt for the last time. While there, I sat down and changed out of my Drymax socks (which were loaded in sand and grit from all of the water), taped up as a preventative measure), drank some pedialyte from my drop bag, ate more chocolate, refined crap and ginger, and headed out and UP toward Edinburg gap. This section was all on open country roads. It was getting hot, and the climb was tedious, but my feet were comfortable which made me happy. Horseflies began their assaults, so I tied my bandanna over my head to keep them out of my hair. Most of this stretch was climbing, but there were a few rolling sections where I was able to run. At 4:00 pm I crossed the 50 mile mark. 12 hours. Definitely at the back of the pack, but given my condition I’d take it.
When I finally arrived at Edinburg aid station, I filled my Camelback again, and the folks there were kind enough to make me a whole PB&J sandwich. I snarfed down a few cookies as they prepared it, then crossed the street and began my ascent up the muddy, gravelly ATV trail, sandwich in hand. The trail was too steep to try and eat and climb at the same time, so I managed to find a rock to sit on while I chowed the sandwich.
I neglected to take another ginger chew, figuring that my stomach was holding up fine. 5 minutes later, after a couple of kids on trail bikes blew 2-cycle fumes in my face, I hurled everything back up…again. Dammit. I was more upset about wasting all the time making and eating the sandwich than I was on throwing it up. Now pissed off, I pushed on up an unrelenting, nasty climb…which lead to several false summits and more rocky trails. An occasional view of the surrounding mountains (and all of the mountain laurel in bloom)
helped to lift my spirits a bit.
Finally, the trail mellowed out to a slightly downhill jeep trail, so I was able to pick up the pace and actually start running again. I was guesstimating mileage by minutes since the last aid station and looking forward to the Little Fort aid station at mile 65, which was rumored to have a great selection of food. Around mile 59, I ran around a bend in the trail and heard a loud rustle in the trees, which sounded like someone bushwhacking. As I came around the bend, I was startled, however, by the sight of two baby bear cubs messing about in the canopy of a small cherry tree which was barely big enough to hold the two of them. They were 20 feet away at best. I immediately stopped in my tracks and considered grabbing my camera…until I saw Mama bear just on the other side of a large puddle at the base of the tree (maybe 30 feet away). Mama didn’t like Paparazzi disturbing the kids, and she stood up on her hind legs, opened her enormous jaws and let out a bit of a snarl/growl, staring at me the entire time. I was FROZEN with fear. With only 30 feet between us I had no shot of outrunning her, and the fist sized rocks on the ground would do nothing but aggravate the situation. The only thing going through my mind was “This is a shitty way to die.”. Plain and simple. I thought I was toast. Stinky toast. But still toast.
The stare-down continued for just a few seconds, when suddenly the baby cubs realized what was going on and came tumbling out of the tree and scurried into the woods. Mama lowered onto all fours and followed. My body instinctively went from “fright” to “flight” mode, and I sprinted like a Kenyan trying to win the Boston Marathon. The next mile wasn’t just the fastest of the day, but it was probably the fastest my short, fat legs have ran in my life! My heart rate was off the chart, breathing almost uncontrollable, and every muscle started to burn from lactic acid buildup. When I saw the jeep by the pond at the next aid station, I slowed down so I could catch my breath and warn the officials. Fortunately, I was one of the last few runners on that part of the course, so they only had a few others to worry about. I left the aid station as soon as I could, knowing Little Fort was less than 5 miles away, and daylight was dimming. I was starving and my entire body ached.
The next few miles to Little Fort were interesting. The trail was gradually rolling jeep roads, with random ATV traffic thrown in for good measure. I ran most of the length at a leisurely pace, and at one point was passed by a runner who had apparently made a wrong turn earlier and added 18 miles to his day (and still finished well below the 28 hour cutoff, towards his fifth completion of “The Last Great Race”). I was in rough shape. Despite the leisurely pace, my legs continued to burn, and the horseflies intensified their assault on me. Mama bear had me spooked to the point that every stump out in the darkening woods looked like a bear. Every rustle in the trees had me on edge. At one point, I swore that a bright green lizard scurried along at my side, only proving to be a leaf that was stuck to my leg by a spider’s web. At my current speed (if you could call it that), I had a shot at making the midnight cutoff at mile 75, but I knew the climb up and down the treacherous Sherman’s Gap would likely do me in. But coupling exhaustion with my lack of nutrition, I doubted my ability to maintain pace for those 10 miles.
I finally reached Little Fort aid station around 8:00 pm. 65 miles in just under 18 hours. No land speed record there. The rumors were correct, as the aid station was an outdoor buffet. I sat down in a dreaded chair, chowed down as much real food and soup as I could manage, drank another pedialyte from my drop bag, and threw in the towel. Fortunately, the aid station was very well staffed, and after some conversation with the race director and a few other officials, a kind soul gave me a ride down the mountain back to the fairgrounds. En route, I was surprised to find that we were only a mile or two away from the summit of Woodstock Mountain, where we passed Jason Lantz on his way to a 18:35 finish!
When we arrived back at headquarters, I checked out with the timing official, plopped into my car, called my wife, and headed back to the Holiday Inn where I slept like a baby for 8 uninterrupted hours. The next morning, I returned to the fairgrounds to see a few fellow runners cross the line. Out of 39 starters, 22 finished the race and 12 of those made it in less than 24 hours. There’s always next year.